“Camp Refuge”
Backpacking 2025, Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness, MT. (Our elevations: 9-10K)
08/30 - 09/05
Day 1, Saturday:
Started late at 6pm. Hiked for an hour and camped at no name lake, where a pit and ready made firewood salted the earth. Bridger started at something in the night so Mike woke the entire forest busting up limbs to stoke our fire all night. Read chapter 1 in Out of the Silent Planet with the guys: 2 Buskohls (Caleb & Elijah), Mike Tully, and me. Tore up one spool of rope attempting to hang food. Don’t buy that squishy junk again.
Day 2, Sunday:
Walked around the lake w/ Mike early morning. He taught me about three trees common to this wilderness: Balsam Fur, Engelmann Spruce, and the Bristlecone Pine (aka Foxtail).
Fur: short 1” or so needles are flat, single needles, no extra “knuckle” that attaches them to branches, skin-like bark. *DO NOT BURN FUR, THEY SPIT EMBERS.
Spruce: even shorter, single needles, they roll in your fingers due to triangular shape, and have woody connectors, larger scaly bark.
Pine: longer needles that grow in multiples (pairs maybe), finer/tighter bark, look like bottle brushes, grows larger branches/trunks besides main trunk.*BEST FIRE WOOD.
Pinecone shrapnel on trail reminded me of something. Picturing a little ground squirrel hanging out to eat its snack in the middle of the trail made me think of the mouse in The Gruffalo. How amusing it would be to memorize that adventurous tail to have on the ready. Maybe I’d be the only one to enjoy it.
*NOTE: next year order small aluminum pulleys—steel are too heavy.
Stopped at Thiel Lake, 11am and lunched. Fish looks promising. Made camp, which we drew lots to decide our location of, but I didn’t trust and leave it to Providence (shame on me). Instead, we chose the spot w/ more comfort rather than view of the lake.
Fish too small; Mike released ‘em all.
Made a log bench. Little projects like those are important. They give purpose/missions. Work doesn’t just pass the time—it fills it, w/ meaning (telos).
Caleb asks what we like about coming out here. My answer: BIG mountain = small me. I love that; need that reminder of how small I am.
Mike thought we all needed to hear about the technique grizzlies use when they eat people… lay you face up and sit on your torso so they can go to work on the fat in your groin. Thank you, Mike.
-This reminded me of the she bears in the Scriptures (2 Kings 2)… It’s easy to feel a little embarrassed or confused about why God was ‘so’ hard on those young men who taunted Elisha. Death by wild beasts was a fitting judgment and execution for men who had beastly affections. They tested Elisha, presuming w/ out his head of authority (Elijah) he was now nothing and no one to fear—a bald head as it were, deprived of his covering. Make no mistake—God is not mocked. He showed those pagan prophet/priests that Elisha’s head was now anointed by the authority of The One True and Living God.
Read Eph.1 together.
-Dinner included fresh communion bread w/ cran/grape juice for the cup after Mike read 1 Cor.11.
Two more chapters in Silent Planet.
Clear skies. Slept next to fire again w/ Mike and Bridger.
Day 3, Monday:
1st of September, the greatest month of the year.
We slept in a draught (aka bear lane).
I awoke to scritchy-scratchy sounds being made on a nearby tree. No doubt a Griz was finishing off the food we hung and would be upon us next. I tried to ignore it but I know I stood no chance of getting the hungry bear in a choke hold if I remained cocooned in my bag. So I rose and refueled the fire ring before stumbling off to use the facilities and worm my way back into my mummy bag w/ the cool satisfaction of knowing I had saved the camp. It’s repugnant to brag; I suppose I can keep to myself how near death we were.
Left base camp 10ish. Returned 3:40. Hit several of the 40 lakes Mike aims to set eyes on.
Ate at Liver Lake. Smoked salmon is always a treat, but I can’t recommend combining hazelnut almond spread w/ Dubliner on a tortilla.
I think Mike is finally convinced to ditch the extra camcorder and sure shot camera. Next year, he’ll pack a larger power bank in their stead. Our phones are superior and multipurpose, if we can keep them alive in the wild.
The lakes were invigorating; Bear scat at one and paw prints at another. We’re definitely on their turf. Lord, have mercy. Every day is a gift. Despite the many reminders it’s easy to lose sight of that simple fact. Thank You, O my Father, for giving us this day our daily bread and, in place of our debts You lavish riches in Your Son.
The quiet mountain peaks are a gift. Not a sound was on the air. My ears heard nothing save the drone of tinnitus, my own heart, and the creak of my boot laces; or, was that barking spiders.
Looking forward to my ReadyWise meal tonight. Salesman said it’s restaurant grade.
Day 4, Tuesday:
Breaking camp at 7:57. Plan to march 6 miles to Lake Elaine, where we’ll stay possibly for the rest of the week.
Disturbing dreams last night. Only remember parts of the last one; it’s fast fading: some tension with Linds over who knows (competing desires, I think), she wouldn’t stand next to me and just listen, kept movin about and interrupting, I think she was on rollerblades at Twido’s house, and Twido kept interrupting too…? Frustratingly I couldn’t get my thoughts out, so I started to leave in the Artisan box-truck, but it got away (rolled away) from me…? And it rolled over in someone’s yard across from elephant park, so naturally, I flipped it back upright (cause that’s easy to do), Linds caught up to me and trying to laugh it off said to come back w/ her and just watch the movie together. I acted like I would just go home, but knew I would end up back there w/ her where we’d laugh and let it fade into distant memory, much as this dream. -I’m glad it ended peaceably.
Arrived at Elaine 11:50. A boulder field lies between us and a prospectively majestic camp site for the ages on the east side.
BTW, my ReadyWise meal lived up to the hype. Mmm mm, GOOD.
*NOTE: leave my metal cup and extra fuel.
Starbucks instant has proved a worthwhile exchange for the Aeropress. Man, I love making fresh cups, but sacrifices must be made to gain space and cut weight.
Nearly slid off some rocks into the stream crossing. Elijah socked his boots in one of them.
Met a nice (presumably) father/daughter group, who gave some fishing updates, etc. Dude had a robust black wave of the thickest hair with just enough flecks of white to suggest that wisdom lived inside of him. It was tall and impressive.
Caught 8 fish (the last one by the tail, and I don’t mean ‘hooked’ —the line tied around his tail). Kept and ate 6 w/ the group.
*NOTE: only bring one block of Longhorn cheese/ no Dubliner. Too much food to carry and lasts longer than you think.
Our camp is nicely concealed. I cut a plug of earth out for our fire ring, which Mike will reset so as no one could ever guess that four men lived here for three days.
Mike wanted to turn our food hanging routine into a tutorial video. It featured me confusedly deciding where to place the alpine butterfly knot for the upper pulley (after a well placed throw, I might add), followed by our doomed branch nearly striking Caleb atop the head. The search for a hanging tree began anew and eventually victory was earned. Not a tutorial I’d watch, though instructive on what not to do.
Feels good, relaxing w/ tea and a book tonight after my sock-sponge bath. Two more chapters down. Ransom escaped his captors after nearly being eaten by a Hnakra.
Clear skies and bright heavenly lights are my ceiling tonight.
Day 5, Wednesday:
Already Wednesday. WOW.
An elk cried in the night. Wish it was a full on bugling band of elk; that’s a haunting and glorious song.
Fish for breakfast, but poor Mike got soaked catching them. I took a funny picture of him drying out in his boxers at the fire.
A relaxing day, a down day, a rest day, mostly.
We did explore for an hour over to Green Lake. Bridger was a hoot! He chases sticks, rocks, anything you throw in the water. I tossed a 15-20lb log, and he wasted no time getting it. Bringing it back to shore, he looked as though it was keeping him afloat.
Past Green, Spogen Lake was a site to behold. Site-worthy, indeed. There’s a small water fall to keep the mood and drinking water fresh and lively, and a cliff wall, to prevent sneak attacks, behind a flat, soft ground just begging for a fire and tent; and plenty of fire wood.
We found a way to string an exterior ridge line across the RayWay tent—holds the peak up better.
Something weighing on my mind—I realize I don’t pray daily for my wife and children. Why? What have I been thinking and what blessing am I, are they, missing out on because of my neglect? Father, I need your help to change. Hear me pleading that I may have a prayerful life. Thank You for caring for my family through provisions of work, shelter, sustenance, church family, family family, and prayers, which You welcome to hear and to answer.
Caleb and I knocked over a deceased pine and made another bench. The group is having more conversations that pierce through the exterior life to the interior life. After I read some Frost, Longfellow, and Kipling, Elijah shared his love for poetry. Cool. He even has friends who share in this interest. Even cooler. They formed a dead poet society.
Hyoi died tonight but Mike fell asleep before I read that far. I’ll catch him up at breakfast.
Still haven’t progressed on Part 2 (shocker), but my reading has been life-giving. Reading Denalt, Romans, and John 6. My work is to believe in the Son of God. That passage has been a refuge, a rock, an anchor for my soul for many years. Where else would I turn; to whom would I go? He has the words of eternal life.
Day 6, Thursday:
Last chance at hitting our 40-lake goal.
Left camp at 9 bells. My watch died.
*NOTE: as a rule, replace watch battery every year and take a new Burt’s Bees (also ‘died’).
I had been tracking our total hours of hiking on my watch (Suunto CORE), but I lost that data along w/ my battery. I estimate it was 13 hours, give or take. We really haven’t been covering great distances. Instead, we are hopping lake to lake on short excursions since they’re so close to each other. How could we not? Each is a little different, and clearly even the bear have favorite lakes to visit.
Still camped at Lake Elaine, we want to touch a half dozen more today, ending at Pleiades before retracing our steps. Gorgeous hike w/ river crossings and boulder hopping, all w/ out encumbrance of our gear.
Summerville Lake had an enchanting swimming hole that appeared almost built for humans. Awesome…in warmer weather…
I found a smooth amber colored stone in Pleiades. Mike found me one more for me to bring home for Liv and Caleb, and dubbed them Pleiades gold.
More griz tracks but there’s been a surprisingly low amount of big game encounter this year. We’ve had to settle for ground squirrel, fish, gray jays, and the odd duck.
Thought we lost Elijah. If he was not at camp when we got back it would be a search party situation. Due to poorly maintained trails, his 17-year-old agility, and eagerness to blaze ahead, we had no idea if he made the correct turn (which we ourselves missed). Thankfully, the LORD blessed Elijah w/ keen sense of direction and skill in reading topography. Good work, Elijah. But always stay w/ the group. Crisis averted.
This is serious business. When something does go wrong it often turns bad just that quickly. One wrong decision and…bam.
We got back at 3.
Last night to feast on mountain lake trout. Split 6 among the 4 of us.
Food bags are nearly empty—good for our stomachs and backs.
Every night I make a hot beverage to have waiting for me to wake up to in the night. It’s been a good system. Go to bed w/ a full bladder, which forces me up so I can contribute through the night to feeding the fire we sleep beside; drink a little more and hunker down for another hour or two; repeat.
Bedtime—a lot of work to break camp tomorrow morning.
Day 7, Friday:
September the 5th (happy birthday).
I’m sure I heard elk down at our lake shore in the night. Maybe it was just Caleb…?
It finally cooled enough to frost my sleeping bag. I hate packing it wet, especially if it’s wet w/ frost—numbs the hands, instantly.
Left “Camp Refuge” at 7:53 after erasing traces of human life.
Treacherous 12 mile hike out. Picture walking up a 10/12 pitch roof in 20-30 minute intervals, non-stop, multiple times. It rips at the tendons. Not to mention, giving up ground in between on steep declines shocks the knees.
The Nissan was pleasant to our eyes at 12:48.
That brings our final tally up to approx 24 hours of walking. That accounts for one whole day out of our seven.
I return refreshed in the Lord, ready to continue working for God and my family. And I’m bringing home one new member—a baby Bristlecone (foxtail) Pine.
P.S. We made it to 23 lakes in total.
Wool, toe socks kept my toes in better shape this year. That was an easy solution. Great! One year closer to being able to take my son along w/ me. Lord, grant us the time and we will explore the glory of Your mountains together. Let us see Your glory.
I’ve been asked, what does your supply list for backpacking look like?
Below is everything I carry, either on my person or in my pack.
Geek out if you want. I wonder what I’m missing or what I should cut…?
Backpacking Lists:
Gear:
Backpack (Osprey AETHER Plus 70L)
Sleeping bag (0˚ hyke&byke down)
Inflatable pillow (SeaToSummit AEROS)
Foam sleeping pad (closed-cell, foldable)
Tent (RayWay tarp /stakes/cordage)
Ground sheet
Trekking poles
Water bottles (2 1L bottles, 4L collapsible HydraPak)
Coffee mug, *NOTE: buy one like Carter’s
Silicone bowl and cup (collapsible)
Flexible cutting board (doubles as snow shovel)
Long-handled titanium spork
Jetboil
Fuel
Pot (optional—Mike always brings his)
Pans (2 frying pan system)
10L folding bucket (optional)
Plastic Bench scraper (tool for bread making, and cleaning)
Scour pad
Pot grabber/tongs
Fire tools (matches, lighter, tri-oxane fuel tablets)
Fishing rod
Tackle bag (reel, lures, sinkers, pliers, stringer, etc.)
Knives (EDC, Swiss army, buck lite)
Lights (head lamp, backup high lumen output)
Batteries
Power bank/cables
Compass
Maps
Journal
Pen/pencil
Reading book
Sunscreen (.5 oz solid stick)
Toothbrush/toothpaste
Soap
Q-tips
Cotton swabs
Medical supplies (bandages, neosporin, gauze, bleed stop, alcohol, alka-seltzer, IBU, hydrocodone, mole skin, super glue, *note: need to add sewing supplies)
Extra nylon belt (gear strap/tourniquet)
Paracord (nylon, & Kevlar weave (doesn’t melt))
Pot hanger (optional—make in field)
Pulleys (2)
Carabiners
GearAid tape
Gorilla tape
Sharpie
Saw
Towel (SeaToSummit S Pocket towel)
Field wipes
Toilet paper
Granite Gear sacks (various sizes) *NOTE: buy a dry bag
Compression sacks
Bags (extra ziplocks, garbage bags for sleeping bag/pack)
Paper towel (4-6 pcs)
Sunglasses
Burt’s Bees chapstick
Fingernail clippers
Pipe/pipe tobacco
Tin whistle
Clothing:
Boots
Crocs
Socks (2-3 daily wear, 1-2 liners)
Underwear (2)
Shorts
Pants
Wicking short sleeve
Merino wool shirt (thin, long sleeve, half zip)
Long sleeve button up
Fleece pullover
Down jacket
Gloves (thin/lightweight)
Buff (2)
Beanie
Belt
Poncho
Food:
Freeze dried dinner x2 (stroganoff, Pasta Alla Vodka with Chicken)
Instant potatoes (3 packs)
Flour tortillas (20 pack)
Cheese (1-1.5lbs of Shullsburg longhorn)
SPAM (3-4 single slice)
Chicken salad (1 pack)
Smoked salmon (1 pack)
Better Oats (10 packs, Cinnamon roll flavor)
Chopped dates (optional for oatmeal)
Mixed nuts (beer nuts, pecans)
REX Bars (5 chocolate sea salt)
Kind mini bars (20-24 variety)
Almond/honey butter (3-4 packs)
Honey (6 packs)
Communion bread (flour, seasoning, oil)
Communion juice (1C)
Nutella (few spoonfuls in ziplock)
Tea (lemon ginger, chai, constant comment, peppermint)
Chai powder (1 box)
Coffee (Starbucks instant)
Butter (1 stick)
Lemon (1, optional for fish)
Spices (salt, cayenne, garlic salt, 7Spice, cardamom)
Snickers (1 bar)